Актер Гаспар Ульель: «Сен-Лоран освободил женщину»


Автор: Екатерина Чен
На российские экраны только что вышел французский фильм «Ив Сен-Лоран: Стиль - это я».




Это фрагменты жизни и творчества выдающегося модельера, законодателя дизайнерских тенденций всей второй половины ХХ века, - Ива Сен-Лорана. Во Франции в этом году уже была снята одна, ладная, правильная, одобренная душеприказчиками биография легендарного кутюрье, но это кино, от режиссера Бертрана Бонелло, совсем другое: дерзкое, ломаное, местами вызывающее, чуть утомляющее бесконечными угарными вечеринками, но при этом удивительно метко попадающее в заглавный образ и отражающее саму суть нелегкой работы художника. Роль Ива Сен-Лорана сыграл Гаспар Ульель, известный нам как по креативной рекламе французского парфюма, так и по фильмам «Париж, я люблю тебя», «Долгая помолвка», «Ганнибал: восхождение» и др. О работе над сложным образом законодателя стиля актер рассказал в интервью.




Гаспар, вы много знали о творениях и судьбе Сен-Лорана до того, как вам предложили роль?

Прежде чем возник этот проект с режиссером Бетраном Бонелло, мы говорили о подобном фильме с Гасом ван Сентом. Нам понравилось вместе работать на альманахе «Париж, я люблю тебя», и как-то мы сидели с компанией в кафе, где висел портрет Сен-Лорана, и Гас вдруг заметил сходство между ним и мной. Мы загорелись идеей фильма, но в тот раз не сложилось. Но я рад, что удалось реализовать замысел теперь. Я и прежде представлял себе в общих чертах, какая это глыба, прочел несколько книг и про самого Ива, и о других знаменитых дизайнерах эпохи.

Вы изучали архивы?


Сохранилось много фотографий, но мало видео, мало записей: Сен-Лоран не жаловал общение с прессой, интервью, он чувствовал себя не в своей тарелке, и его друг и партнер по модному дому Пьер Берже защищал его в этом плане. Я старался найти побольше документальных свидетельств о жизни своего персонажа, меня даже пустили осмотреться в апартаменты, где жил Ив. Но потом я решил похоронить все это и максимально абстрагироваться.



Наш фильм - вымысел, и глупо стремиться быть точным в деталях. Куда полезнее чувствовать себя свободным в интерпретации и попытаться понять героя в целом, и в частности ту версию Сен-Лорана, что описана в сценарии. Должно быть, это первая биография, не описывающая основных вех жизнь персонажа. Есть только фрагменты, сцены, из которых образ составляется уже в зрительской голове.

После столь близкого общения с образом кутюрье, как бы вы сформулировали, в чем была миссия и заслуга художника моды?

Думаю, сила Сен-Лорана в том, что он освободил женщину от сковывающего, негибкого кроя, от тесного силуэта. Он придал облику непринужденности, придумал элегантную одежду, которую можно было носить целый день, а не только вечером.





Он способствовал стиранию границ между высокой модой и прет-а-порте, он чувствовал дух эпохи, как в свое время Диор и Шанель. Но при этом подсказал модницам гениальную мысль, что для того, чтобы одеваться по последнему писку, можно черпать вдохновение и в прошлом!



Его смокинги для женщин напоминали о 1940-х, но несли в себе новую сексуальность. Сен-Лоран был истинным художником, возможно, мир моды казался ему мал, по сравнению с изобразительным искусством, например. Не случайно он отдавал в своих коллекциях должное живописцам, начиная с Мондриана. Его ощущение цвета и воображение были потрясающими.

Но как же депрессия, от которой ваш персонаж, похоже, страдал всю жизнь?

Мне казалось, что Ив чуть ли не родился с депрессией, будучи хрупкой и чувствительной натурой, и всю жизнь принимал медикаменты. Но я думаю, жизненные испытания, начиная с детства в африканских колониях и службы в армии, сделали его сильнее. Возможно, его легендарная скромность была во многом ложной, такой страховкой от нападок. Мне бы не хотелось, чтобы моего персонажа судили, рассуждая о морали.




Для себя я решил, что просто показываю две стороны жизни: светлую, днем в мастерской модного дома, где его защищали, холили, - и темную, ночную, дикую, на отвязных вечеринках. Но за теневой стороной мы не забывали о легкости, юморе и широкой сен-лорановской улыбке.



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 70 Каннский кинофестиваль: Пальма в квадрате 70 Каннский кинофестиваль: Пальма в квадрате
Что ж, праздник кино состоялся, юбилей удался. Да, не случилось в программе нынешних Канн сенсаций и шедевров, но крепкий средний уровень картин, маленькие открытия и творческие удачи оставили неизгладимо приятное общее впечатление.

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20 сентября в Москве и еще десятке российских городов открывается AmFest – ежегодный подарок киноманам, фестиваль нового американского кино. Форум славен тем, что в его программе – картины, которые мы можем так и не увидеть в прокате.

Иранская дочь, болгарские башмаки и верность школе Станиславского Иранская дочь, болгарские башмаки и верность школе Станиславского
В Москве завершился 38-й Международный Кинофестиваль. Главный приз, «Золотого Георгия», как и предсказывали многие прогнозы, получил иранский режиссер Реза Миркарими за фильм «Дочь».

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На Московском Кинофестивале при полном аншлаге (публика сидела на ступеньках и толпилась в дверях) еще раз показали новый фильм Сергея Соловьева «Ке-ды».


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Камила Новикова, 27.10.2014 17:58:43
Гаспар красавчик, но фильм не очень хочется смотреть, даже не знаю почему)
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